Fitting, Maintenance & Adjustment

Note: Whilst the SeaSeal® seacock is designed to be very strong and the procedures described below can be performed by the average boat owner, a certain amount of DIY skills and mechanical sympathy are required. As is the case with any mechanical assembly, over tightening or too much leverage and wailing on specific parts may cause failure. If in doubt consult an experienced shipwright.

During any of the following procedures carried out whilst the craft is in the water DO NOT remove the YOKE entirely. This ensures that the SCREW CAP and CONE cannot accidentally be removed or come out of the SEACOCK BODY.

The SeaSeal® seacock should be adjusted to turn positively on delivery and is lubricated with PTFE spray or grease.

Should you prefer a firmer or freer action perform the following:

1. Loosen the YOKE ALLEN KEY BOLTS (without completely removing) on both ends of the YOKE to free up the movement of the screw cap beneath. Note the YOKE has two purposes; firstly, to lock the screw cap beneath and stop it from turning when the seacock is in use and secondly as a security feature to stop the complete removal of the SCREW CAP and the CONE beneath it, when the boat is afloat.
2. Tighten the SCREW CAP to firm up the action, or loosen to make it easier, with a 30mm spanner or adjustable until the action is how you want it – this normally only requires a very small rotation e.g. < ¼ turn. Note a STOP may be removed from the top of the YOKE with an allen key for easier access.
3. When re-tightening the YOKE the action will become slightly stiffer as the very slight tolerance in the thread is taken up. This should be allowed for in the adjustment.

To provide many years of trouble-free service, the seacock should be operated monthly to prevent excessive marine growth on the exposed face of the cone. Simply operate by opening and closing with the HANDLE as many times as it takes to feel the action is free but at least 5 times.

Should the seacock become seized from marine growth, very difficult to turn, or over tightened during adjustment, the design allows for what essentially becomes a ‘puller’ to free it whilst afloat.

The following process slightly draws the cone out of the seacock body. Because of the angled sides of the cone this will release it from the body. This is designed to be done safely with the boat in the water because the top of the cone is sealed to the body by the PTFE SEAL between two parallel faces, so avoiding any significant seepage from the top of the seacock into the bilge:

1. First ensure the TOP NUT, which secures the handle, is tight so that the handle is firmly attached to the shaft of the CONE.
2. Loosen the YOKE ALLEN KEY BOLTS (without completely removing) on both ends of the YOKE to allow upward movement of the SCREW CAP to press against the underside of the HANDLE.
3. Use a 30mm spanner or adjustable to rotate the SCREW CAP anticlockwise. As the screw cap loosens it will start to press against the bottom of the handle. The handle is attached to the top of the cone and so as the handle is pushed upwards the cone will start to be drawn out (or pulled) from the conical recess of the SEACOCK BODY.
   1. Please note:
      1. A STOP maybe removed with an allen key for easier access to the screw cap nut.
      2. The SCREW CAP is independent from the CONE and the HANDLE, they are three separate parts.
      3. Ensure that the YOKE remains fixed to the SEACOCK BODY at all times. This will ensure that the SCREW CAP does not completely disengage from the top of the body and so avoid the risk of the cone lifting out of the SEACOCK BODY.
4. As the SCREW CAP is unscrewed, as above, operate the handle. Once the CONE can be rotated with the HANDLE, the handle should be operated repeatedly opening and closing to ensure that any marine growth or other foreign matter has become dislodged from the cone.
5. The process can now be reversed. Slowly tightening the SCREW CAP to push the cone back into the SEACOCK BODY until the best possible action is achieved.
6. Finally, re-tighten the YOKE screws to hold the SCREW CAP securely in place.

Note if the seacock has been unseized due to marine growth, it should be disassembled and serviced when the craft is next lifted.

The Seacock can be disassembled with the craft out of the water by following the general procedure for ‘Unseizing’ above but the YOKE should be completely removed and the SCREW CAP rotated until the CONE is free enough to simply lift out of the SEACOCK BODY.

Inspect all parts for damage / wear including the condition of the PTFE SEAL in the inside wall of the SEACOCK BODY (If the seal is damaged or worn a genuine replacement can be purchased from SeaSeal Ltd.). The CONE and SEACOCK BODY should be cleaned with a ScotchBrite cloth or lightly abraded with 400grit sand paper taking care not to damage the PTFE SEAL.

Spray all working parts with PTFE spray. Reassembly is the reverse procedure then follow the instructions above for adjustment.
Note: It is recommended that all the seacocks are worked/adjusted and PTFE spray used up through the skin fitting as a minimum annually.

If the craft is left in the water and there is any possibility of the water freezing i.e. in fresh water in the UK. Open the DRAIN PLUGS or remove the GREASE NIPPLES, whichever is fitted, on either side of the SEACOCK BODY with the handle in the closed position. This will allow the majority of the trapped water out and prevent damage from ice. The DRAIN PLUGS can be re-fitted. Ensure that you repeat the process if the seacock is opened again.

Note: It the craft is wintered ashore, the seacocks should be opened to release the water trapped in them.